Ripe mangoes and mango cakes or amsatta

From raw mangoes, let us now have a look at the ripe ones. Ripe mangoes lend themselves to take different forms in both liquids as well as semi-solid states – the first means the mango lassi or sherbet or plain juice while the second one is the transformation to ice creams or kulfis. I remember when I was in Kanpur, the mango ice cream vendors would go around the neighborhood in the evenings with their products. The vessel containing the delicious ice cream would be placed on the hand cart and the mouth licking ice-cream would be scooped up in specially designed spoons and served in metal ‘glasses’.

There is another delicious lip smacking product that requires ripe mangoes, not just ripe mangoes but, those that are loaded with plenty of juice. Yes, I mean the amsatta or mango-cake. These mangoes are usually of the fibrous variety. The skin is first removed and then the juice is squeezed out into suitable vessels. After that, a clean piece of cloth is taken and placed on a mat like surface and the juice is poured onto the cloth. The juice hardens as it dries and, once it is hard enough, a second layer is applied. And the wonderful cake is built up layer by layer.
The final product can be stored for the whole year and can be used to impart wonderful tastes to various other dishes apart from being a snack by itself.
The process of making pickles at home involve plenty of hard work and patience among others and, in view of the terribly tight daily schedules of modern day womenfolk, they prefer to lift these bottles off the shelf of the local shops. But the charm of preparing these in one’s house is un-paralleled.
In families where elder members live with the family, they try to keep up the tradition but, what with limited space in apartments, there is very little opportunity for exposing the products to direct sun rays – and, sunlight is important for the seasoning.
Each of these types of mango products, whether sweet or hot, has a distinct flavor and end use. During the pickle-making season, vendors who sell large glass or ceramic containers do a roaring business. But, that trade is also gradually drying up – the shelves in malls and departmental stores are stocked with umpteen plus one varieties and one can have one’s choice.
In Kolkata, there are shops on the crossing of Gariahat Road where the heady smell of pickles on offer is enough to drive one crazy and the pickles are not only of mangoes but also of olives, chilies and other items. (to be continued …)

(Image courtesy wikimediacommons.org)

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Mango pickles hot and sweet – all-time favorites

It is not clear in which category I should put the mango because, when raw, it is a vegetable and, when ripe, it is a delicious fruit. The recent controversy surrounding two chief ministers of Bihar and the mangoes in the orchard is proof enough that people can go to any extent to get hold of ripe, juicy mangoes that have divine tastes.
Summer is that time of the year when the markets are flooded with mangoes of various sizes, tastes and prices. To many families, this is the time when the women get together to prepare those delicious finger licking pickles that will see the families through the year.

The varieties of pickles are mind boggling – there are the hot ones and the sweet ones. Sweet ones are cooked in jaggery or in sugar. For the jaggery cooked ones, the raw mangoes are cut into reasonably large pieces depending on the size. The seed is removed and the cookable portion is cleaned, coated with salt and turmeric and put on a pan over the oven. Then jaggery is added as required and, as it melts due to the heat, the mango pieces begin to soak the juice and soften. When the cooking is done, red chili flakes are sprinkled and the whole preparation is stirred well and allowed to cool.
For the sweet version with sugar base, the raw mangoes are grated, washed and cooked along with sugar. Here also, the sugar melts and the mango dissolve in it and transform into a sticky substance that boasts of a heavenly taste once garnished with cardamom powder. It is a favorite in Maharashtra.
As to the easy-to-prepare hot versions – it consists of cutting the average size raw mangoes into fours (or sixes) pieces, and seasoning them in large containers in a bed of mustard oil. The containers must be kept in direct sunlight till such time that the mangoes soften. Then spices are added along with whole red chilies and seasoned again. The more sunlight it absorbs, the tastier the final product becomes. Better known as aam-tel (mango-in-oil), this is a great base for preparing aloor-dum during the monsoons (or at any other time). These are even used as additives in pulse preparations. The sour taste of the raw mangoes gives a special twang to the food stuff!
Of course, in some parts of India, especially in the North, pickles are an inseparable part of the menu at breakfast, lunch or dinner – pickles add taste and variety to the menu and taste great either with hot parathas or plain rotis or with rice. (to be continued)
(Image courtesy wikimediacommons.org)

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